Art Asylum Rebuilding, Part 1
This is the first time I've ever done a tutorial of this magnitude. I'll make it as clear as I
can, but I'm liable to make some mistakes, omissions, etc. If I do, please shoot me an
email and I'll explain as best I can. I'm trying to include as many pages as I can so
please be patient with the load-up times.
It's time to start on our rebuild. The first step is to disassemble it, or as The Roger once
said, "gut it like a fish"!
Tools Needed:
So here we go - a box-stock 'honey-dipped' edition AA phaser.
Our first priority - and the most aggravating part - is removing the front nozzle. Actually,
it isn't so bad for me because I usually just lop the whole thing off with a Dremel, but
some folks need to know how to do it in as non-destructive manner as possible.
Note where the butter knife is positioned. You're going to want to hold it and the phaser
in such a way as to be able to pull forwards on the Ring. You'll need to do it on both
sides - in the 6 and 9 o'clock positions. There are two small blind clips that you'll have to
actually break in order to do this. It can't be helped - it's a part of the design.
Hopefully, this will be your result. It's tricky to do without marring the paint slightly. If I
was the cocky sort I'd have photoshopped this pic to make like I did it perfectly, but
we're striving for reality here....from this point the end cap and the rotating ring slide off
the front.
Rear fins..... this is a tricky area too.
First thing is to hold the phaser phirmly and twist the fins to one side as shown.
Now, insert something into the gap and twist the other way. (it's hard to do that while
you're holding a camera BTW)
Now they just slide right off.
Here's what was causing the problem - two ridges molded inside the fins....
Now, before you do anything else, Trim those bad boys down!
Now it's time to open her up and start gutting. Remove the screw in the handle,
forehead area, and the fin area. Slowly spread the halves apart from the top. Be
careful, as the P1 retainer and the trigger spring are liable to launch across the room,
as these did.
Note how the two halves are connected by a wire:
If you're doing a rebuild of almost any sort, go ahead and clip the wires as shown. Be
sure to cut them where they attach at the switch and LED though.
Here are the parts you'll throw away if you're modding:
Time to remove the spring-loaded contacts. You'll definitely need them so remove with
caution.
See how they're 'swaged' on? Looks like they used a hot iron or something at the
factory to mushroom the pins. Anyway, to remove, just gently pry up one side then the
other. Try your best to leave at least one of the pins intact:
Here it is with the plate removed. I don't know what that crusty stuff is but it'll have to be
removed. Quick but light work with a wire brush and a miniscule amount of Rem-Oil will
do the trick nicely.
What's wrong with this picture? This is the other side. Looks like they forgot to
mushroom the pins. I'm glad I'm redoing this phaser - after just a few times of
removing/inserting the P1 and this baby would have fallen out.
A closeup of one of the Pins.
As far as I can tell, there have been four variations on these. They are, in order of
production:
1. Pin - spring retained by its own tension plus white nylon ring
2. Pin - spring retained by its own tension only
3. Pin - spring retained by its own tension plus drop of solder
4. Redesigned pin - spring retained by ridge machined onto pin
I've seen 1's in the original B/G/B issue... a few 1's but mostly 2's in the BW issue, 3's in
early Honeys, and 4's in late Honeys/all Black-n-blues. 4's are by far the best, 1's and
3's are OK, but the 2's suck major Targ. Reason being is that they are prone to sliding
on down in the spring and making poor contact.
The reason I'm so anal about these is that I want them to last as long as they can -
which brings me to back to that crusty stuff on the pin in this Honey. I'm thinking it was
the flux they used.
Whichever the case, every 1 and 2 that I've dealt with have gotten a solder job whether
they liked it or not.
These will have a very important role later on in the build....
*****For Part 2, you'll need:
This is the first time I've ever done a tutorial of this magnitude. I'll make it as clear as I
can, but I'm liable to make some mistakes, omissions, etc. If I do, please shoot me an
email and I'll explain as best I can. I'm trying to include as many pages as I can so
please be patient with the load-up times.
It's time to start on our rebuild. The first step is to disassemble it, or as The Roger once
said, "gut it like a fish"!
Tools Needed:
- One butter knife
- One Philips Screwdriver
- One pair wire nippers
- Small flat-bladed screwdriver
- One X-Acto knife (or similar)
So here we go - a box-stock 'honey-dipped' edition AA phaser.
Our first priority - and the most aggravating part - is removing the front nozzle. Actually,
it isn't so bad for me because I usually just lop the whole thing off with a Dremel, but
some folks need to know how to do it in as non-destructive manner as possible.
Note where the butter knife is positioned. You're going to want to hold it and the phaser
in such a way as to be able to pull forwards on the Ring. You'll need to do it on both
sides - in the 6 and 9 o'clock positions. There are two small blind clips that you'll have to
actually break in order to do this. It can't be helped - it's a part of the design.
Hopefully, this will be your result. It's tricky to do without marring the paint slightly. If I
was the cocky sort I'd have photoshopped this pic to make like I did it perfectly, but
we're striving for reality here....from this point the end cap and the rotating ring slide off
the front.
Rear fins..... this is a tricky area too.
First thing is to hold the phaser phirmly and twist the fins to one side as shown.
Now, insert something into the gap and twist the other way. (it's hard to do that while
you're holding a camera BTW)
Now they just slide right off.
Here's what was causing the problem - two ridges molded inside the fins....
Now, before you do anything else, Trim those bad boys down!
Now it's time to open her up and start gutting. Remove the screw in the handle,
forehead area, and the fin area. Slowly spread the halves apart from the top. Be
careful, as the P1 retainer and the trigger spring are liable to launch across the room,
as these did.
Note how the two halves are connected by a wire:
If you're doing a rebuild of almost any sort, go ahead and clip the wires as shown. Be
sure to cut them where they attach at the switch and LED though.
Here are the parts you'll throw away if you're modding:
Time to remove the spring-loaded contacts. You'll definitely need them so remove with
caution.
See how they're 'swaged' on? Looks like they used a hot iron or something at the
factory to mushroom the pins. Anyway, to remove, just gently pry up one side then the
other. Try your best to leave at least one of the pins intact:
Here it is with the plate removed. I don't know what that crusty stuff is but it'll have to be
removed. Quick but light work with a wire brush and a miniscule amount of Rem-Oil will
do the trick nicely.
What's wrong with this picture? This is the other side. Looks like they forgot to
mushroom the pins. I'm glad I'm redoing this phaser - after just a few times of
removing/inserting the P1 and this baby would have fallen out.
A closeup of one of the Pins.
As far as I can tell, there have been four variations on these. They are, in order of
production:
1. Pin - spring retained by its own tension plus white nylon ring
2. Pin - spring retained by its own tension only
3. Pin - spring retained by its own tension plus drop of solder
4. Redesigned pin - spring retained by ridge machined onto pin
I've seen 1's in the original B/G/B issue... a few 1's but mostly 2's in the BW issue, 3's in
early Honeys, and 4's in late Honeys/all Black-n-blues. 4's are by far the best, 1's and
3's are OK, but the 2's suck major Targ. Reason being is that they are prone to sliding
on down in the spring and making poor contact.
The reason I'm so anal about these is that I want them to last as long as they can -
which brings me to back to that crusty stuff on the pin in this Honey. I'm thinking it was
the flux they used.
Whichever the case, every 1 and 2 that I've dealt with have gotten a solder job whether
they liked it or not.
These will have a very important role later on in the build....
*****For Part 2, you'll need:
- Loctite Brand Thin CA
- Baking Soda
- Plastic organizer (for small parts)
- Dremel tool with cutoff wheels and sanding drum
- Black and Decker Mouse Sander with varying grades sandpaper
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