Art Asylum Rebuilding, Part 3
This Week on 'Flip That Phaser',,,,
This'll be the LAST of the Disassembly/dissection/gutting parts. After this we'll get on to
the fun stuff- rebuilding!
This section will deal with grinding off the ribs and cradle and some general reshaping
of the Phaser 2's body.
Materials and tools needed:
Dremel tool with cutoff wheels and drum sanders
Mouse sander or equivalent with 60 and 120 grit pads
Sanding blocks
Various grades wet/dry automotive sandpaper
Loctite Super Glue (CA)
Baking Soda
There's a thin area that we need to strengthen. In the back left corner of the P2, the
plastic under the ten-turn's 'deck' is a little thin. It is so thin in fact that if we're not
careful we may accidentally sand through it today. So, grab the CA and baking soda!
Hold the half as shown and fill the back corner with CA.
As soon as possible, sprinkle baking soda over it. Wait a few seconds and blow the
excess off. Set this half aside to cure for maybe a half hour.
Now, we're going to remove the side ribs and P1 cradle from the P2's body.
Don your safety glasses!
You need to use medium sanding drums for this operation. Go slow. You want to take
the ribs off but be careful not to dig into the P2's body. If you go to deep though, don't
worry - we can fill it back in later. I'm doing six of these right now and chances are I'll
need to do that so I'll show you how. The important thing is to just take your time. That'll
save time in the long run.
While you're at it, do the same thing to the P1.
Reattach the battery door to the P1. We're going to smooth it over.
And then it's Mouse time! Ordinarily I wouldn't think of using something as harsh as 60
grit on plastic but the AA plastic is really hard.
***Note: If you're sensitive about dust, you may want some type of mask to filter it out.
When using the Mouse on the P2, use the 60 grit on the Front, Sides, and Ten Turn
Deck only.
Here's where we're going to be doing some actual re-shaping. Check out this pic - see
the area on the back where it's swelled out in a toe-like fashion? I hate that, so let's
knock it out with the Mouse.
Go ahead and use the 60 on the P1. I hate that texture. See how we're blending the
battery door in? That'll end up making a big difference.
You may have noticed the dip between the wheels on top of the P1. The 60-grit is a
perfect cure for that! I did some light sanding already so that said dip would show up
better in the pic...
The P2 after the 60-grit treatment. It's time to change to the 120-grit. Go over where
you used the 60-grit and smooth it up, then we're going to hit a few other areas.
Gratuitous cat picture. He's the Project Manager.
Other than the smoothing of the already-sanded area, we're going to use the 120 grit
for more reshaping. There are some sink marks on the lower part of the handle as well
as on the bottom of the phaser. They seem to vary in intensity from phaser to phaser
but they've all got them.
Head to the sink. This might be a good time to tell your wife/girlfriend/roomie.etc. to
head off to the store because you're going to make a bit of a mess. No worry - it's easy
to clean up.
Use increasing grits - start off with maybe 240, then 400, and maybe 600 if you feel like
it. We'll have to do a tad more sanding next time so don't worry if you miss a spot or
three.
Add a drop of dish detergent onto the sanding block.
Using the block on the P2:
Make sure you hit the rough edges on the front and back of the handle....
You'll be able to use the sanding blocks on the P1, but most of your sanding will be
done without the block because of the curved surfaces. Make sure you get it smooth
and all that accursed texture removed...
Here's where you need to be! A nice and baby smooth P1 and P2 unit!
Next time, we're going to be hittin' the P2 hard. We'll be filling the screw holes, adding
the ribs, cradle, and nozzle mount and getting it ready for its electronics.
***** One important thing regarding different phaser versions. Some of you out there
may be interested in building a Black and White version. Maybe you haven't decided
which kind you want. Either way, there's still time to decide. Up until now, the work we've
done is the same between the two versions.
We'll be building both kinds - there are two BW's in this batch - so you can do either
one. No sweat!
This Week on 'Flip That Phaser',,,,
This'll be the LAST of the Disassembly/dissection/gutting parts. After this we'll get on to
the fun stuff- rebuilding!
This section will deal with grinding off the ribs and cradle and some general reshaping
of the Phaser 2's body.
Materials and tools needed:
Dremel tool with cutoff wheels and drum sanders
Mouse sander or equivalent with 60 and 120 grit pads
Sanding blocks
Various grades wet/dry automotive sandpaper
Loctite Super Glue (CA)
Baking Soda
There's a thin area that we need to strengthen. In the back left corner of the P2, the
plastic under the ten-turn's 'deck' is a little thin. It is so thin in fact that if we're not
careful we may accidentally sand through it today. So, grab the CA and baking soda!
Hold the half as shown and fill the back corner with CA.
As soon as possible, sprinkle baking soda over it. Wait a few seconds and blow the
excess off. Set this half aside to cure for maybe a half hour.
Now, we're going to remove the side ribs and P1 cradle from the P2's body.
Don your safety glasses!
You need to use medium sanding drums for this operation. Go slow. You want to take
the ribs off but be careful not to dig into the P2's body. If you go to deep though, don't
worry - we can fill it back in later. I'm doing six of these right now and chances are I'll
need to do that so I'll show you how. The important thing is to just take your time. That'll
save time in the long run.
While you're at it, do the same thing to the P1.
Reattach the battery door to the P1. We're going to smooth it over.
And then it's Mouse time! Ordinarily I wouldn't think of using something as harsh as 60
grit on plastic but the AA plastic is really hard.
***Note: If you're sensitive about dust, you may want some type of mask to filter it out.
When using the Mouse on the P2, use the 60 grit on the Front, Sides, and Ten Turn
Deck only.
Here's where we're going to be doing some actual re-shaping. Check out this pic - see
the area on the back where it's swelled out in a toe-like fashion? I hate that, so let's
knock it out with the Mouse.
Go ahead and use the 60 on the P1. I hate that texture. See how we're blending the
battery door in? That'll end up making a big difference.
You may have noticed the dip between the wheels on top of the P1. The 60-grit is a
perfect cure for that! I did some light sanding already so that said dip would show up
better in the pic...
The P2 after the 60-grit treatment. It's time to change to the 120-grit. Go over where
you used the 60-grit and smooth it up, then we're going to hit a few other areas.
Gratuitous cat picture. He's the Project Manager.
Other than the smoothing of the already-sanded area, we're going to use the 120 grit
for more reshaping. There are some sink marks on the lower part of the handle as well
as on the bottom of the phaser. They seem to vary in intensity from phaser to phaser
but they've all got them.
Head to the sink. This might be a good time to tell your wife/girlfriend/roomie.etc. to
head off to the store because you're going to make a bit of a mess. No worry - it's easy
to clean up.
Use increasing grits - start off with maybe 240, then 400, and maybe 600 if you feel like
it. We'll have to do a tad more sanding next time so don't worry if you miss a spot or
three.
Add a drop of dish detergent onto the sanding block.
Using the block on the P2:
Make sure you hit the rough edges on the front and back of the handle....
You'll be able to use the sanding blocks on the P1, but most of your sanding will be
done without the block because of the curved surfaces. Make sure you get it smooth
and all that accursed texture removed...
Here's where you need to be! A nice and baby smooth P1 and P2 unit!
Next time, we're going to be hittin' the P2 hard. We'll be filling the screw holes, adding
the ribs, cradle, and nozzle mount and getting it ready for its electronics.
***** One important thing regarding different phaser versions. Some of you out there
may be interested in building a Black and White version. Maybe you haven't decided
which kind you want. Either way, there's still time to decide. Up until now, the work we've
done is the same between the two versions.
We'll be building both kinds - there are two BW's in this batch - so you can do either
one. No sweat!
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